The size 4 just reaches the smaller areas where the size 10 cannot. It’s good to use on anything with corners, or straight edges. I like to have this brush on hand for blocking in smaller areas like buildings in the background, or things like cars and boats. Flat shaders can give the best dry brush texture, which I love as well.įlat Shader (or Filbert) Brush | Size 4: I use the size 10 much more than this one, so I think the size 4 is optional. The flat shape allows for a very straight edge, making it perfect for geometric shapes. To me this size is big enough to cover a large surface area, but small enough to block in details. I typically use this brush to block in my backgrounds. If you like less detail, I would also consider sizing up as well.įlat Shader (or Filbert) Brush | Size 10: This is a wider, flat brush. I like paint brushes to feel like pencils. I also have a lot of detail work in my paintings, so I probably like smaller brushes than most. If you’re painting larger, you may want to size up. Keep in mind - I usually work at an 8x10 in. I’ve stopped buying any brushes that aren’t the ones I’ve listed below for that reason. I have many more brushes in my drawer that never get picked up, so I don’t see the point of including them. Oddly enough, this is the order I use them in when creating a piece as well. I’m going to start with the largest, and work my way down. I could easily switch between brands, as long as the brushes are synthetic and designed for watercolor.īelow are the five types of brushes I use and the sizes I like. While brands of brushes are important for price and quality, the end result comes down to the type of brush you’re using. They are slightly more expensive, but talk about no bristles being out of place on the shelf! I noticed these at the art store immediately, and boy have they delivered! The bristles have stayed perfectly in tact after months of use. Lately, I’ve been using Princeton Lauren Series Gold Synthetic brushes. Also, the price point was low, so replacing them wasn’t a big deal. I found that they held up well against more expensive brushes I tried. All bristles should be in place, especially when you haven’t even used the brush yet! Also, do the bristles come out easily when you run your fingers over them? No one likes stray bristles scattered throughout their painting!įor a while, I used Simply Simmons Synthetic brushes. How do they look on the shelf? I look at which brands have a lot of stray/fanned out bristles, and I steer clear of those. Next, I look at the quality of the bristles. Oddly enough, it’s tough to find brushes labeled as “gouache.” However, gouache is just opaque watercolor, so they require the same tools (that goes for paper as well). At the art store, I usually look for brushes that are labeled as “watercolor.” A brush labeled as “watercolor, mixed media, acrylic, etc.” is fine too, as long as watercolor is in the description somewhere. When painting with Gouache, a synthetic brush is ideal - meaning the bristles are soft and smooth, versus course and stiff (bristles that feel like horse hair). Brushes are very instinctual like that, and the preferences vary from artist to artist. Use this article to help you choose a variety of brushes, and then observe which ones you actually pick up. I’m happy with the brushes I use, and they’ve stayed fairly consistent over the years. I’ve tried a lot of brushes, and I know which ones in my supplies drawer I’m always using and which ones I never pick up. As someone who never went to art school, I sometimes feel like an imposter when talking about supplies and technique.Įverything I’m going to share with you is simply what works for me, but I have no idea if it’s the “proper” way of doing things. I wish I could say this is a topic I’m an expert in, but it’s not.
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